Like thousands of other tourists and travelers drawn to Nepal for trekking in the Himalayas, Kim and I have found ourselves in the city of Pokhara. It’s the base of operations for anyone planning to trek in the Annapurna region.
At first glance, one word came to mind upon arrival in Pokhara: touristy. The more I travel, the more ‘touristy’ becomes a four letter word, and usually said with a sneer that is reserved for cockroaches and bus station touts. At first blush we were questioning our decision to spend a week in Pokhara before heading out to Annapurna Base Camp.
But we decided to set our first impressions aside and give it a chance, and Pokhara has shown itself to be a nice little city. Despite being Nepal’s second largest city, its population is only 265,000, and outside of the tourist district it almost has a small-town feel. It’s located beside the man-made Phewa Tal (lake), the second largest lake in Nepal. On clear days you can see three 8,000 meter (26,246 feet) mountain peaks from pretty much everywhere in town, the highlight being Annapurna, the 10th tallest mountain in the world.
We arrived in town with no guest house reservations, but that doesn’t seem to be a problem in Pokhara. There seems to be a higher guesthouse-to-tourist ratio here than anywhere else we have visited. We stayed in the Iceland Guest House, by my reasoning that staying at a guesthouse named after a country that believes in gnomes would be good karma while on my one man search for the Yeti.
One of the many sign clusters pointing you to side streets full of guest houses |
We spent one day renting a boat to row across the lake and hike up to the World Peace Pagoda that overlooks the city. The hour-long hike, straight up the hill (I don’t think they believe in switchbacks here), was a wake up call to how out of shape I am. I had to huff, puff, sweat, and haul myself up to the top, barely able to keep sight of Kim’s feet scampering up the trail.
Rowing our rented boat across Phewa Tal |
The World Peace Pagoda in Pokhara |
After rowing back to shore and a much needed shower, we set out to stop the grumbling in our bellies. Just down the street from our guesthouse I see one of my favorite sights in the world. Kim had to nearly tackle me to stop me from running down the street to my newfound, albeit temporary, savior: the street food vendor. We fill ourselves with mixed chaat, samosas, and my new favorite street food: pani puri.
Samosas fresh out of the fryer
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After we regain all of our senses, we take an evening stroll on the lakeside path. It’s dusk and the sunset over the lake is beautiful. After taking in the last of the daylight, we make our way back to our temporary home, having enjoyed everything this city has to offer, even if it is a little touristy.
Sunset over Phewa Tal |